Ternos das Almas









Ternos das Almas translates loosely to Suit or Group of Souls. From the top of the mountain, through the streets, ending at the Church of Saint Sebastion Igatu - women draped in white sheets sing songs of mourning during Lent. As an American, the symbol of white sheets has an entirely different meaning and I found it hard to see beyond that, but this is different. This is a traditional penance made ​​in honor of the suffering of Jesus and all those that are no longer with us. I found this video where you can hear the songs:




Even with a digital camera that can shoot at ISOs unknown to film, this was very hard to photograph. I struggled to focus, struggled to compose an image that was slightly interesting, and both nights wandered off because of it.







I probably should have pushed myself harder to get an image, but with little to no light it was really difficult. I haven't found a "great" image of this anywhere. My images aren't even good, but they remind me of those last few nights in Igatu and that's a blessing in it's own. Standing in the darkness, fighting off mosquitos, admiring the immensity of the stars that are never visible in NYC was incredible. The women were singing off to my right and I could hear someone talking in front of me but not sure where. It's as if he was right there but he was probably far up in the hill talking on a phone, or so I think. In the distance you can hear cheers from the football game on the opposite side of town. Igatu won. Friday night lights.

I'm still missing Bahia - the sunshine, the warmth, my friends... how I could I not. I've been listening to Edson Gomes while editing, which helps. As the weather man threatens snow on this first day of Spring, I recommend everyone listens - turn it up, close your eyes and enjoy! -g

Maria Vieira, Igatu.













Sylvia Plachy said recently, “I tried to understand what was going on without the language.” After visiting with Maria I returned with an image I took of her in 2011... at this moment, I desired more then anything to understand more of the language.




I understood enough to know this was her son, he adored his mother, and that the images I brought to her meant more then I could have known. She loved the photo of herself, thinking she turned out pretty good, so proud! But then I handed her two more images of a neighbor (photo). I was sure he had passed away, as the last time I was in Igatu was 2011 and he was not doing well then. She stared at the images, her son enticed her to remember who it was. Memory came quickly and when I looked up again tears were running down his face, a single tear on hers. He was obviously important to them. Her son began telling me the story, I handed them tissues, and nodded like I understood. I did not. We all shared this moment together but I still had no idea.

Thankfully I was with friends that did speak Portuguese. As we passed by again I introduced them to her son and he explained that it was his uncle, his mother's brother. If I remember correctly he was the man that collected the money at the mines when the diamonds came in. That not once did he steal or cheat any of the miners. But that part is cloudy as my mind was wrapped up in the love that Maria was sharing. A hug, a smile, tears.

Not every photograph makes the final edit, but all photographs are worth keeping. Once I knew we were returning to Igatu I gathered as many pictures as I could to share with those I had photographed in 2011. These photographs bring smiles, open hearts and memories worth every tear drop and hug that there is. Miss Gabriella (photo) that I had photographed had all but grown up. Shyer then she was in 2011, thanked me and ran off to her friends. Her mother loved the photograph.

It's these moments that really stay with me. Returning and sharing with new and old friends alike.

Happy Valentines Day



passing the heart from Igatu to you.

Boi de Igatu









A few from the festival in Igatu, it was hard to photograph the actual procession so we sent most of the time photographing the preparation. The festival itself was in celebration of the village women and the elders - especially those that stayed during the hard times after the diamond mine closed. The highlight of the night for me was when the entire procession made it's way to the edge of town, bringing the celebration to a man that can no longer participate due to his health. The smile on his face and being with all of them inside of the small room was amazing. We are just starting the final edit of the workshop - the next images you will see will be the final edit, on a wall, in frames... somewhere tbd.

Igatu







Yesterday we had the day planned to photograph the procession of Saint Sebastion then the afternoon Boi Estrela Festival, but at the very last minute it was decided to put the Festival to today. We weren't sure what to do with ourselves so we jumped in the VW and drove a long ways to the town of Guinea that we were told would be interesting. After 30km down a bumpy dirt road we found it. We also found no one - closed windows, walls around the homes, even the bars were closed. We gave it a chance but it wasn't really photographic so we headed home. Turns out Guinea has a lot more money (comparably) then most villages since they have a very large coffee plantation. With money comes privacy. There were people there but most were in their homes. In Igatu there is some money but not more then they need. Yes there are families better off then others but everyone mixes together. The people are beautiful here, always welcoming us into their homes and allowing us to photograph it all. So now we stay another day - Saturday will be the long drive back to Salvador where I'm looking forward to a day on the beach...

Salvador to Igatu







The book said the drive would take 5 hours, it took us almost 9. A few misread signs, several u-turns, a stop outside of Chapada Diamantina where the keys went missing, all 8 of us in a VW van without a/c while going 70mph… eventually we found our way to our home for the week, Pousada Flor de Açucena. A tropical hotel built into the side of the mountain where rooms have walls built out of the caves. If you ever make your way to this part of Brazil I highly recommend it!

These photos are from our stop about an hour from Igatu. Outside the window I saw the "bar social" and I thought would be a great picture. Ernesto looking out the other window saw a cloud of butterflies and the next thing you knew we were all out of the van, photographing the town of… maybe 40 people…. our cameras everywhere taking it all in. They were amazing. Very few stopped to smile and pose for the camera but instead allowed us to capture them in life. They let us wander around their home, brought out their pet parrot, fed us mangos from their tree and let us sit in on a billiard game. Can you imagine this happening in NY? I loved the cast of characters almost waiting for our cameras. Today we head to a smaller village then a swim in a caves blue pool. The following day is our 5 hour trek to somewhere (?) for the night, returning the next day. I'll let ya know how that goes afterwards…